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Sometimes you have to copy shamelessly. The best way to do so, without any remorse whatsoever, is to copy yourself. When I realized that once again I’m attracted to write about menswear, I remembered an article written during my guest blogging day at les mads earlier this year. It occurred to me that several topics relevant to this series were hidden in those lines such as the revival of the pantsuit in the spring 2011 collections or the revival of the gentleman. But let’s dip our toe into a short recap of the history of menswear in our wardrobe first.

Sometimes we have to remember that some influences in fashion were not always a given. Long before expressions like the boyfriend look belonged to the repertoire in our language and were included in the vocabulary of the fashion editors, women were inspired by menswear. You have just to remember Mademoiselle Chanel who urgently wanted to flee the uncomfortable feeling of restriction due to the corset. She was so fed up that she simply grabbed her boyfriend’s riding clothes and walked straight to a tailor where she ordered a pair of jodhpurs – in her size. The commissioned tailor cried out in despair: “But Madame this isn’t appropriate for ladies!” Eventually he executed the wish, but only reluctantly. Her boyfriend, Étienne Balsan, found those peculiarities quite charming back in the days, yet in 1907 this kind of fashion choice was unconventional to say the least and lead to many a raised eyebrow.
Actress Diane Keaton had to encounter quite a similar experience during the making of the film Annie Hall. Once she stepped on the set, the costume designer wasn’t enthusiastic about her look to say the least, as remembers director Woody Allen. She implored him not to let her wear this kind of outfits on the screen. “Tell her not to wear that. She can’t wear that. It’s so crazy.” Woody Allen in turn wasn’t fazed and simply replied to leave her alone, “she should be wearing what she wants”. And what Diane wanted were oversized men’s jackets skillfully combined with loosely cut trousers and long skirts. She also had a soft spot for ties. What was surprising back then, and what was sometimes seen as outrageously bad taste, developed over time into a trend and is still a path breaking influence in fashion.

One of the numerous homages to the style icon is the editorial Diane K shot by Mikael Jansson in 2009 for Vogue Paris.

More and more women become true enthusiasts when it comes to menswear, a phenomenon which can be easily observed in the blogging world. Illustrator and streetstyle photographer Garance Doré shops frequently in the closet of her boyfriend Scott Schuman aka The Sartorialist. Her love and dedication to rolled-up trousers, men’s shirts and brogues goes a long way: menswear counts among her essential inspiration sources when it comes to her personal style, she stated in an interview with Refinery 29. The outcome: looks with a laid-back attitude. In my opinion they deserve their very own post. Not a raised eyebrow.

Images: Mikael Jansson

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When reading a review of Haider Ackerman’s latest collection, I stumbled over the following sentence: “You love the idea that she would steal the clothes from her husband,” he said, before correcting himself: ”Her lover, not her husband.” A certain image is brought up: The sun filters through the curtains. She wakes up. Slightly tousled hair. Well, tousled just the right amount of tousled. No need for a brush whatsoever. She stands up, tiptoes into the kitchen and grabs a cup of coffee. His shirt is hanging casually on the back of the chair. She spontaneously picks it up and throws it on. She grabs his jeans, slightly oversized yet just the perfect fit. One hour later she is sitting with him in a café, sipping on a cappucino and tearing a flaky croissant apart. She looks utterly relaxed. The epitome of someone laid back.

It is just one version of many images which belong to some sort of a fantasy and they all found their way into our minds the moment menswear found its way into the woman’s closet. The idea, stealing shamelessly from your boyfriend’s array of clothes, is two things: really alluring  and not as new as you might think.  Alluring simply because looking laid back and good is not as easy as it might sound. Not really new, because there is a history of women who broke the rules and that was not just five years ago. A third point should be added to the list: If it is well executed, a menswear item (or even several for that matter) can not only make her look that much more interesting. It can make her look incredibly cool and underline her femininity a lot more than the usual clichés. Something I am really sure about is that the subject deserves more than just one post, so this would make the post a nice introduction. In the next episodes we are going to flip a little trough the history and explore some well executed examples on this matter. Because as much as introducing menswear pieces into your life can do wonders, it can also go fabulouly wrong. And that would be much more of a nightmare than a fantasy. Nobody wants to sit in a café and look like they have run out of clothes to wear because it is laundry day.

Images: Martien Mulder  

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Time management issues? Obviously. Seriously. I’m really struggling right now with all the things that have to be done. Correction: All the things that I want to be done. There is a clear difference, as an acquiantance of mine told me recently. I would say that will make for a great topic for one of the next posts. One that we can explore together. What do you think? Let’s steer our mind towards something more light and pleasant: last fashion week. Some time has passed since the last show and after all the impressions have found a cosy place in my mind, I would like to share some of my favourites with you.

What if I would mention the word “kite” and say that it was the main inspiration behind an entire collection? Would you cringe a little? If this is the case, be assured, I would be entirely with you. The prospect of a litteral translation is not that far away and all the images that are taking form in our minds gravitate toward something really cheap if not really scary. But what would it look and feel like if the translation happened to be just right? What if a designer managed to choose just the right amount of hints and bring the feeling alive through just the right amount of details? The answer can be found in the 3.1. Phillip Lim collection.

Seeing the pieces leads to all kind of thoughts popping up simultaneously. The lightweight fabric and its movement. The ribbons which flow gently in the air.  The gentle colour palette and the layering. The minimalistic approach and the comfortable appeal.  Then, you focus on one item at a time, the trousers, for example. You notice that their fit is a little bit on the slouchy side, and that the usual hem is replaced by track-pant vents. Yet they are still elegant and work appropriate. Then it hits you: “I could wear that. I really want to wear that.” And that’s when you know, that Phillip Lim has done everything right.

Images: 3.1. Phillip Lim spring 2012 [style.com]

 

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