The big question is: what kind of motivation lies behind such a fundamentally different point of view for a Saint Laurent collection?
Some might argue that Hedi Slimane simply wanted to break the rules and therefore attract a lot of attention (which he did without question). But there are also others who insist that he has a point, that even though he isn’t faithful to Yves silhouettes, he is faithful to his attitude as a designer.
Both Leandra Medine from the Man Repeller and Géraldine Dormoy from Café Mode are mentioning the 1970s and how Saint Laurent transformed fashion. By bringing the style from the street on the runway, he did nothing less than “democratise fashion”. Another example for his revolutionising spirit could be found in the creation of the first plausible alternative to evening dresses: le smoking.
Although there were a lot of question marks floating above my head when I got the first glimpse of the collection, I’m very much curious which steps he is going to take in the future. One must remember that the story of Yves and his house were always strongly intertwined. His travels and experiences were a big influence on the clothes he created and the way his label was shaped. Nothing less is now the case with Hedi Slimane.
Image: Hedi Slimane
There are many, many collections striding down the runway in New York, Milan and Paris during fashion week. When a label succeeds to stand out and maybe even to stay on our mind, it is most of the time by the means of beautiful clothes and inventiveness. Of course, there are quite a few other factors which can have a positive impact on our overall impression of a runway show and therefore our reaction: the styling, the make-up and the scenery. A new designer taking over the reigns of a renown fashion house does also lead to a lot of attention. Latter is the case for Hedi Slimane entering the stage of Yves Saint Laurent: t is only the second season of the designer being at the helm of the famous label, reason enough for anyone to focus on the outcome.
Hedi has already proven that he is rather prone to surprises by dropping the Yves in favour of the simpler “Saint Laurent”. When we take a closer look at the much bespoken fall 2013 collection, it becomes clear that the abbreviation was only the first of possibly many outrageous steps in the future. Walking down the runway was one grunge look after the other: short leather dresses, plaid shirts, heavy boots. First impression: this collection has a lot to do with Hedi Slimane and his love for this particular scene (see: Hedi Slimane diary) and absolutely nothing with Yves Saint Laurent and his love for elegance.
To be continued…
During the last fashion week two particular subjects grabbed the attention amidst the fashion crowd…
The first one was an article written by Suzy Menkes. The Circus of Fashion published in the T Magazine (the New York Times Style Magazine) delved into the topic of street style — a phenomenon turned madness.
The second one was a collection created by Hedi Slimane. For 2013 the Saint Laurent look can be described with one word: “grunge”. Indisputably that is quite a surprise — the question is whether it is a good or a bad one.
I already announced at the beginning of last week that the latter would figure amidst the next posts on this blog (and it will be with a slight delay tomorrow). What makes sense, though, is to put everything in context (the context being that two topics were the talk of the town last fashion week, Hedi being “just” one of them). So, this is a heads up: both topics are going to figure on this blog next week and I hope you are going to enjoy reading them…
Image: Alec Soth
A picture is really that good when you remember where you saw it first (jjjjound), when you did post it already a few years ago (Definitely Golden before the relaunch) and you don’t even hesitate a second to post it once again.
Image: Robert Knudsen
A beautiful shot of Prabal Gurung and Zoe Saldana arriving at the CFDA awards. And a kind reminder that we all would miss out a lot if there wasn’t such a thing as a well tailored suit.
Image: Ann Street Studio
Sometimes you just have to put two and two together. Or in that case combine a lighter/ brighter shade with a darker/ subtler one.
Back then: the transparent clutch. Right now: the chrome handle leather tote. Maison Martin Margiela knows how to stay on our minds for sure.
Another day. Another cape. Or so they say. As you know I’m leaning heavily toward a wool coat investment wise. But then again, seeing all these beautiful capes leave me wondering…
Let’s snap back to reality. And to the picture above. Yes, it is indeed one of these looks which remind me of the Céline aesthetic. Exquisite tailoring and no fuss. Maybe the overall longing for minimalism and less frills have caught on with others designers and translates therefore in a cleaner approach here and there. What counts in the end is that you can still spot the signature of each individual label and as a matter of fact Valentino’s designer duo did this successfully even with an all white and all clean look (the hood, the shoes, the headband, the styling).
Even though I could probably go on and on about this all white look, I would like to direct your attention to yet another eye candy from their fall 2013 collection. Now, who doesn’t want to snatch that dress right from the runway?
Images: Valentino fall 2013 [Vogue.com]
Quite a few great collections were showcased on the Parisian runway and I would like to share a few of my favourite looks during the next few days. A label that caught my attention quite unexpectedly was Chloé. There was elegance and there was toughness. There were bare faces and high boots. There was an edge (piercings!) to an otherwise polished look. Usually those exact words would be found written below another designer’s work. In other words: this season feels tremendously influenced by a Céline kind point of view. More proof to come…
Images: Chloé fall 2013 [style.com]
Turning theory into practice. Today: combining formal pieces with casual wear.
Images: style.com and The Sartorialist