To me, this close-up encapsulates the essence of Maison Martin Margiela. A lot of elements which evoke pureness and simplicity. Such as the clean neckline, the bare face and the perfectly tousled hair. And an element which is unusual in this particular context, but at the same time makes totally sense. Such as this rather unusual piece of jewellery. One of the rare cases where „effortless elegance with a twist“ is more than appropriate and not just an expression.
Image: Maison Martin Margiela spring 2013
The beauty of a new year is the feeling of starting over, afresh, having a blank canvas at your disposition and a clear mind…LET’S STOP RIGHT THERE. I don’t know about you but my „clear mind“ resembles much more my kitchen after a very successful party than the supposed zen-space. So, with all these ideas, tasks and deadlines, crying for my attention, where am I supposed to start?
Maybe with the 3.1 Phillip 2013 holidays collection and more specifically with the two looks above. The styling (loose T, tucked in hair) is flawless and both jackets are matching my idea of perfect wardrobe staples. But there is more: surprisingly I am finding myself relenting to the idea of wide legged trousers and not any white legged trousers, ladies and gentlemen: white wide legged trousers which are luxuriously touching the ground. A sure nightmare for the hard reality of daily life and a city where a clear coat barely survives two weeks without a visit to the cleaner. Now, add the close relationship between the hem and the floor to the equation…On the other hand there is this perfect silhouette created through the contrast of this unpractical item and the short and beautifully constructed leather jacket. I suppose that the magic of fashion consists in our ability to put the bespoken issues to the very back of our mind or at least relativize them. The dry cleaner is around the corner right?
Images: 3.1 Phillip Lim
The big question is: what kind of motivation lies behind such a fundamentally different point of view for a Saint Laurent collection?
Some might argue that Hedi Slimane simply wanted to break the rules and therefore attract a lot of attention (which he did without question). But there are also others who insist that he has a point, that even though he isn’t faithful to Yves silhouettes, he is faithful to his attitude as a designer.
Both Leandra Medine from the Man Repeller and Géraldine Dormoy from Café Mode are mentioning the 1970s and how Saint Laurent transformed fashion. By bringing the style from the street on the runway, he did nothing less than „democratise fashion“. Another example for his revolutionising spirit could be found in the creation of the first plausible alternative to evening dresses: le smoking.
Although there were a lot of question marks floating above my head when I got the first glimpse of the collection, I’m very much curious which steps he is going to take in the future. One must remember that the story of Yves and his house were always strongly intertwined. His travels and experiences were a big influence on the clothes he created and the way his label was shaped. Nothing less is now the case with Hedi Slimane.
Image: Hedi Slimane
Another day. Another cape. Or so they say. As you know I’m leaning heavily toward a wool coat investment wise. But then again, seeing all these beautiful capes leave me wondering…
Let’s snap back to reality. And to the picture above. Yes, it is indeed one of these looks which remind me of the Céline aesthetic. Exquisite tailoring and no fuss. Maybe the overall longing for minimalism and less frills have caught on with others designers and translates therefore in a cleaner approach here and there. What counts in the end is that you can still spot the signature of each individual label and as a matter of fact Valentino’s designer duo did this successfully even with an all white and all clean look (the hood, the shoes, the headband, the styling).
Even though I could probably go on and on about this all white look, I would like to direct your attention to yet another eye candy from their fall 2013 collection. Now, who doesn’t want to snatch that dress right from the runway?
Images: Valentino fall 2013 [Vogue.com]
Quite a few great collections were showcased on the Parisian runway and I would like to share a few of my favourite looks during the next few days. A label that caught my attention quite unexpectedly was Chloé. There was elegance and there was toughness. There were bare faces and high boots. There was an edge (piercings!) to an otherwise polished look. Usually those exact words would be found written below another designer’s work. In other words: this season feels tremendously influenced by a Céline kind point of view. More proof to come…
Images: Chloé fall 2013 [style.com]
It’s a first. On so many levels. For once the label No. 21 has never been featured on this blog. And then, well, how to put this? Birds on a skirt. I’m pretty sure that kind of thing didn’t make an appearance on Definitely Golden. Yet. As the old saying goes, there is a first time for everything. So here we go…
Let’s start with the label. Don’t be surprised if you haven’t heard about it until now since it was brought to life just a few seasons ago (in 2010 to be precise). Alessandro Dell’Acqua, the designer, decided to start anew after leaving his eponymous label and opted for the name No. 21 simply because it is his lucky number and date of birth. His main focus lies on outfits which are suitable for daily life therefore it can be assumed that his inspiration comes rather from looking at street style shots than from attending gala events.
A quite unusual couple made an appearance in the fall 2013 collection: Italian and English influences. Both partners didn’t shy away to bring their typical fabrics (like tweed and lace) and other staples to the table. Not all the resulting looks were a success, but some of them had something about them, a certain something. Just like the one pictured above. At first sight it is quintessentially English which is probably mostly due to the colour combination (pink and brown*), the silhouette and the fabric (boxy space-dye knit sweater). The first images that it conjured in my mind had a lot to do with books which are set in old London. However, there was something else lingering in my thoughts, that something else being probably unexpected elements like lace, for example. And yes, embroidered birds. Now, I’m not ashamed to admit that I would not shy away from wearing this ensemble, just as it is, straight from the runway. First cow prints, then birds. Who would have thought that?
* Apparently I have something for this specific colour combination. Remember this?
Image: N0. 21 fall 2013
There is one wardrobe item you will probably think about when I drop the name „Lacoste“: the classic polo shirt. I guess it is not exactly breaking news when I admit that I don’t own one and that I don’t plan to. In return it could be surprising to hear that the famous French label has caught my attention with a…dress.
As you can see, it is not the typical tennis dress one would associate Lacoste with. A clear and defined silhouette. Structured and voluminous shoulders. There is no doubt that the sportswear character prevails, but it does so with a quiet elegance. I wouldn’t mind to be surprised again.
Images: Lacoste fall 2013 [afterDRK and Vogue]
Phillip Lim mentioned „girlfriends of bikers“ as the inspiration of his 2013 fall collection. Leather pieces? Check! Sweatshirts? Check! Denim and patches? Check! So yes, the resulting looks are definitely bringing a biker attitude across. Now, I’m not a fan of every single piece in this collection, but what I do like is the layering (big surprise!) and the colour combinations in the pictures above.
Click on „Read More“ and see the looks in their entirety…
Images: 3.1 Phillip Lim [style.com]
Here is a question: why are we taking a look at all kind of different collections? More often than not the interest doesn’t translate into an instant plan to buy one of those garments in the near future, right?
I think that the main reason is…wait, now comes a heavy heavy word…inspiration. Watching a collection means finding new colour combinations and learning about new ways to combine different garments. When we do it regularly, it probably sharpens our eye for fabrics and prints and what is maybe even more crucial, proportions. It certainly helps us to develop our own style, just because we learn over time what we do like and what we do not like. Ultimately we even will be able to make the distinction between what we like to look at and what really suits us.
If I had to name one designer which would serve as a good example, and there are many which I would consider naming here, I would opt for Dries Van Noten. He excels in the art of layering and by choosing different kinds of fabrics, he underlines beautifully their respective textures. One should not forget to mention his sense for wonderful prints and impeccable styling. All this combined leads to collections which are always worth a second look (and a little bit of swooning). The latest one would make no exception.
Mark Holgate from Vogue.com spoke about „a textbook Dries Van Noten show“. I definitely want to read all the chapters.
Images: Dries Van Noten spring 2013 [style.com]
Time management issues? Obviously. Seriously. I’m really struggling right now with all the things that have to be done. Correction: All the things that I want to be done. There is a clear difference, as an acquiantance of mine told me recently. I would say that will make for a great topic for one of the next posts. One that we can explore together. What do you think? Let’s steer our mind towards something more light and pleasant: last fashion week. Some time has passed since the last show and after all the impressions have found a cosy place in my mind, I would like to share some of my favourites with you.
What if I would mention the word „kite“ and say that it was the main inspiration behind an entire collection? Would you cringe a little? If this is the case, be assured, I would be entirely with you. The prospect of a litteral translation is not that far away and all the images that are taking form in our minds gravitate toward something really cheap if not really scary. But what would it look and feel like if the translation happened to be just right? What if a designer managed to choose just the right amount of hints and bring the feeling alive through just the right amount of details? The answer can be found in the 3.1. Phillip Lim collection.
Seeing the pieces leads to all kind of thoughts popping up simultaneously. The lightweight fabric and its movement. The ribbons which flow gently in the air. The gentle colour palette and the layering. The minimalistic approach and the comfortable appeal. Then, you focus on one item at a time, the trousers, for example. You notice that their fit is a little bit on the slouchy side, and that the usual hem is replaced by track-pant vents. Yet they are still elegant and work appropriate. Then it hits you: „I could wear that. I really want to wear that.“ And that’s when you know, that Phillip Lim has done everything right.
Images: 3.1. Phillip Lim spring 2012 [style.com]