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Tag "fall 2013"

Hedi SlimaneThe big question is: what kind of motivation lies behind such a fundamentally different point of view for a Saint Laurent collection?

Some might argue that Hedi Slimane simply wanted to break the rules and therefore attract a lot of attention (which he did without question). But there are also others who insist that he has a point, that even though he isn’t faithful to Yves silhouettes, he is faithful to his attitude as a designer.
Both Leandra Medine from the Man Repeller and Géraldine Dormoy from Café Mode are mentioning the 1970s and how Saint Laurent transformed fashion. By bringing the style from the street on the runway, he did nothing less than „democratise fashion“. Another example for his revolutionising spirit could be found in the creation of the first plausible alternative to evening dresses: le smoking.

Although there were a lot of question marks floating above my head when I got the first glimpse of the collection,  I’m very much curious which steps he is going to take in the future. One must remember that the story of Yves and his house were always strongly intertwined. His travels and experiences were a big influence on the clothes he created and the way his label was shaped. Nothing less is now the case with Hedi Slimane.

Image: Hedi Slimane

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YSL
There are many, many collections striding down the runway in New York, Milan and Paris during fashion week. When a label succeeds to stand out and maybe even to stay on our mind, it is most of the time by the means of beautiful clothes and inventiveness. Of course, there are quite a few other factors which can have a positive impact on our overall impression of a runway show and therefore our reaction: the styling, the make-up and the scenery. A new designer taking over the reigns of a renown fashion house does also lead to a lot of attention. Latter is the case for Hedi Slimane entering the stage of Yves Saint Laurent: t is only the second season of the designer being at the helm of the famous label, reason enough for anyone to focus on the outcome.

Hedi has already proven that he is rather prone to surprises by dropping the Yves in favour of the simpler „Saint Laurent“. When we take a closer look at the much bespoken fall 2013 collection, it becomes clear that the abbreviation was only the first of possibly many outrageous steps in the future. Walking down the runway was one grunge look after the other: short leather dresses, plaid shirts, heavy boots. First impression: this collection has a lot to do with Hedi Slimane and his love for this particular scene (see: Hedi Slimane diary) and absolutely nothing with Yves Saint Laurent and his love for elegance.

To be continued…

Image: unknown

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Valentino fall 2013
Another day. Another cape. Or so they say. As you know I’m leaning heavily toward a wool coat investment wise. But then again, seeing all these beautiful capes leave me wondering…
Let’s snap back to reality. And to the picture above. Yes, it is indeed one of these looks which remind me of the Céline aesthetic. Exquisite tailoring and no fuss. Maybe the overall longing for minimalism and less frills have caught on with others designers and translates therefore in a cleaner approach here and there. What counts in the end is that you can still spot the signature of each individual label and as a matter of fact Valentino’s designer duo did this successfully even with an all white and all clean look (the  hood, the shoes, the headband, the styling).
Even though I could probably go on and on about this all white look, I would like to direct your attention to yet another eye candy from their fall 2013 collection. Now, who doesn’t want to snatch that dress right from the runway?

Valentino fall 2013
Images: Valentino fall 2013 [Vogue.com]

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chloe-rtw-fw2013-runway-01_123144303486_b
Quite a few great collections were showcased on the Parisian runway and I would like to share a few of my favourite looks during the next few days. A label that caught my attention quite unexpectedly was Chloé. There was elegance and there was toughness. There were bare faces and high boots. There was an edge (piercings!) to an otherwise polished look. Usually those exact words would be found written below another designer’s work. In other words: this season feels tremendously influenced by a Céline kind point of view. More proof to come…

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Images: Chloé fall 2013 [style.com]

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No.21 fall 2013
It’s a first. On so many levels. For once the label No. 21 has never been featured on this blog. And then, well, how to put this? Birds on a skirt. I’m pretty sure that kind of thing didn’t make an appearance on Definitely Golden. Yet. As the old saying goes, there is a first time for everything. So here we go…
Let’s start with the label. Don’t be surprised if you haven’t heard about it until now since it was brought to life just a few seasons ago (in 2010 to be precise). Alessandro Dell’Acqua, the designer, decided to start anew after leaving his eponymous label and opted for the name No. 21 simply because it is his lucky number and date of birth. His main focus lies on outfits which are suitable for daily life therefore it can be assumed that his inspiration comes rather from looking at street style shots than from attending gala events.

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A quite unusual couple made an appearance in the fall 2013 collection: Italian and English influences. Both partners didn’t shy away to bring their typical fabrics (like tweed and lace) and other staples to the table. Not all the resulting looks were a success, but some of them had something about them, a certain something. Just like the one pictured above. At first sight it is quintessentially English which is probably mostly due to the colour combination (pink and brown*), the silhouette and the fabric (boxy space-dye knit sweater). The first images that it conjured in my mind had a lot to do with books which are set in old London. However, there was something else lingering in my thoughts, that something else being probably unexpected elements like lace, for example. And yes, embroidered birds. Now, I’m not ashamed to admit that I would not shy away from wearing this ensemble, just as it is, straight from the runway. First cow prints, then birds. Who would have thought that?

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* Apparently I have something for this specific colour combination. Remember this?

Image: N0. 21 fall 2013

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Lacoste fall 2013Lacoste fall 2013
There is one wardrobe item you will probably think about when I drop the name „Lacoste“: the classic polo shirt. I guess it is not exactly breaking news when I admit that I don’t own one and that I don’t plan to. In return it could be surprising to hear that the famous French label has caught my attention with a…dress.
As you can see, it is not the typical tennis dress one would associate Lacoste with. A clear and defined silhouette. Structured and voluminous shoulders. There is no doubt that the sportswear character prevails, but it does so with a quiet elegance. I wouldn’t mind to be surprised again.

Images: Lacoste fall 2013 [afterDRK and Vogue]

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  3.1 Phillip Lim fall 20133.1 Phillip Lim fall 2013
Phillip Lim mentioned „girlfriends of bikers“ as the inspiration of his 2013 fall collection. Leather pieces? Check! Sweatshirts? Check! Denim and patches? Check! So yes, the resulting looks are definitely bringing a biker attitude across. Now, I’m not a fan of every single piece in this collection, but what I do like is the layering (big surprise!) and the colour combinations in the pictures above.

Click on „Read More“ and see the looks in their entirety…

Images: 3.1 Phillip Lim [style.com]

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Fall 2013. Yes, this is what we are getting a taste of on the runway right now. New York fashion week has been officially kicked off by now, people! Nemo visiting or not, everyone is bundling up and venturing outside in order to get a sneak peek of the wardrobe items we will all swoon about next winter. And it is not such a big of surprise to me that I’m actually quite in the mood for some browsing and discovering. Don’t understand me wrong: I don’t  hope for an especially long winter which extends endlessly into the future. It’s not like I can’t get enough of it. Quite to the contrary, like everybody else I am quite fed up with this season. But I do think that it could help to look at some winter prettiness in the form of flawless and stunning looks. Also looking forward to Tim Blanks covering the fashion shows on style.com, Cathy Horyn’s writing reviews on her blog On the Runway and Garance Doré releasing new episodes of Pardon my French. Yes, that is me trying to do some positive thinking here…are you joining the club?

Images: Garance Doré

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