It would be a shame to close The case Saint Laurent without mentioning Hedi’s first addition to the accessory department: a bag (spotted thanks to The Man Repeller). And let’s throw in the most gorgeous pair of sandals for good measure (found on Andy Heart). Now, we can move on.
Images: Saint Laurent
The big question is: what kind of motivation lies behind such a fundamentally different point of view for a Saint Laurent collection?
Some might argue that Hedi Slimane simply wanted to break the rules and therefore attract a lot of attention (which he did without question). But there are also others who insist that he has a point, that even though he isn’t faithful to Yves silhouettes, he is faithful to his attitude as a designer.
Both Leandra Medine from the Man Repeller and Géraldine Dormoy from Café Mode are mentioning the 1970s and how Saint Laurent transformed fashion. By bringing the style from the street on the runway, he did nothing less than “democratise fashion”. Another example for his revolutionising spirit could be found in the creation of the first plausible alternative to evening dresses: le smoking.
Although there were a lot of question marks floating above my head when I got the first glimpse of the collection, I’m very much curious which steps he is going to take in the future. One must remember that the story of Yves and his house were always strongly intertwined. His travels and experiences were a big influence on the clothes he created and the way his label was shaped. Nothing less is now the case with Hedi Slimane.
Image: Hedi Slimane
There are many, many collections striding down the runway in New York, Milan and Paris during fashion week. When a label succeeds to stand out and maybe even to stay on our mind, it is most of the time by the means of beautiful clothes and inventiveness. Of course, there are quite a few other factors which can have a positive impact on our overall impression of a runway show and therefore our reaction: the styling, the make-up and the scenery. A new designer taking over the reigns of a renown fashion house does also lead to a lot of attention. Latter is the case for Hedi Slimane entering the stage of Yves Saint Laurent: t is only the second season of the designer being at the helm of the famous label, reason enough for anyone to focus on the outcome.
Hedi has already proven that he is rather prone to surprises by dropping the Yves in favour of the simpler “Saint Laurent”. When we take a closer look at the much bespoken fall 2013 collection, it becomes clear that the abbreviation was only the first of possibly many outrageous steps in the future. Walking down the runway was one grunge look after the other: short leather dresses, plaid shirts, heavy boots. First impression: this collection has a lot to do with Hedi Slimane and his love for this particular scene (see: Hedi Slimane diary) and absolutely nothing with Yves Saint Laurent and his love for elegance.
To be continued…
During the last fashion week two particular subjects grabbed the attention amidst the fashion crowd…
The first one was an article written by Suzy Menkes. The Circus of Fashion published in the T Magazine (the New York Times Style Magazine) delved into the topic of street style — a phenomenon turned madness.
The second one was a collection created by Hedi Slimane. For 2013 the Saint Laurent look can be described with one word: “grunge”. Indisputably that is quite a surprise — the question is whether it is a good or a bad one.
I already announced at the beginning of last week that the latter would figure amidst the next posts on this blog (and it will be with a slight delay tomorrow). What makes sense, though, is to put everything in context (the context being that two topics were the talk of the town last fashion week, Hedi being “just” one of them). So, this is a heads up: both topics are going to figure on this blog next week and I hope you are going to enjoy reading them…
Image: Alec Soth
Sometimes making a few changes does not only seem like a good idea, it seems like a necessity. As 2012 came to an end, that was how we felt when it came to our appartment. And since we don’t like to do things halfheartedly, more and more ideas came up and we started right away with some executions. Part of the plan is to get rid of all the stuff that had gathered over the time and that we don’t really need (anymore). Weird as it is, I don’t really bother. There is a part of me who finds it quite satisfying to get rid of things and making space for…space. In that spirit I went through the big piles of magazines which have gathered over an unacceptable amount of time. Luckily I could part easily with a good amount of them since I couldn’t see myself flicking through them one more time. Those which stayed, in turn, are true keepers which I will see myself come back to over and over again in the future. Anyway, in the middle of the sifting process I came upon this beautiful black and white shot of Lara Stone. The magazine: Vogue Paris, 2009. The man behind the lens: Hedi Slimane. I remember how much I liked it the first time I turned the page and how it ended up to be part of my illustration portfolio (if you are curious the see the result, just hit the Read More button). Needless to say that my opinion hasn’t changed a bit.
Happy weekend everyone!
Image: Hedi Slimane Illustration: Definitely Golden
Sometimes one has enough of colour and automatically one’s attention gravitates towards black and white shots. It is like taking a little visual vacation: glorious simplicity, a little bit of light, a little bit of darkness. Times like these require a visit to the portfolio of hedi slimane.
Image: Hedi Slimane